However, don't let that scare you away from them! While these belts are absolute crap AS IS, they are AWESOME for modifying!!! They literally BEG you to modify them. Do not be afraid to do this, ladies! I was afraid, but then I thought to myself, "Self, WTF am I afraid of? I can't actually HURT this junky belt...so go for it!" Seriously, you can totally do this. Be crafty, you do not have to get dirty in a smithy pounding on hot metal or anything. You can do all this on your basement floor or outside on the patio.
You cannot modify a Tollyboy, Neo Steel, or My-Steel belt. And why would you? Those come atcha just right from the factory. But these chinese junkers...oh no.
Don't know HOW to trick out a chastity belt? Hey, no problems! Follow the Gorgon! I'll lead you through a very simple process, arm you with what you need to know, and you supply your own creativity and get a belt that is uniquely YOURS.
Girls, time to get your toolbox out! (if you don't have tools, borrow them or buy the cheapies from Harbor Freight. Every woman needs some hand tools for when the menfolk are busy with other things)
Tools you will need to customize a chinese made chastity belt:
- Small 10 oz ball pein hammer
- Pair of end nippers, at least 8 inch
- small pair of pliers
- small screwdrivers, #3, #2 #1 phillips and #0 flat tip screwdriver
- Cordless screw gun
- set of GOOD drill bits, 3/32, 1/8. 5/32, 3/16, and maybe 1/4" depending on which style you get. (BUY COBALT drills because you are working on stainless steel)
- piece of oak hardwood flooring for an anvil
- piece of thick hard metal, an old iron, a vise if you have one, anything made of smooth metal you can pound on. (i use a huge spike nail hammered into a piece of wood)
- Sandpaper, silicon carbide coarse grit and medium grit (i think it is 100 and 180 grit or something like that)
- Loctite threadlocker (get the red stuff!)
- Clear silicon adhesive elastomeric caulk (GE, DAP, or 3M.) this is what is gonna glue down that difficult to glue silicone to your belt.
- Fasteners--copper rivets (called "burrs", stainless steel rivets, aluminum rivets, whatever you can find that will not rust)
- D-rings, stainless steel http://www.strapworks.com/D_Ring_w_Clip_p/ssdrc.htm
STEP #1.
When you get your chastity belt in the mail, you need to adjust the belt to YOU. Do the best you can to keep the silicone liner on it, the metal is thin and it will dig in without it. So what system works best to adjust a chastity belt ??? Simple, you start with the WAISTBAND.
If you have a rear solid strap model, take your little screwdriver and pair of pliers to hold the locking nut and TAKE OFF the rear solid strap from the center rear of your waistband. Set it aside. We'll get to that next...
Take a cloth tape measure and stand naked in front of a mirror. You want to measure your waist above your hips at the smallest point. That is usually about 1/2 the distance between where you can feel your hip bone and your bottom rib, should be around your bellybutton somewheres. Keep the tape level around you, make sure it does not droop in back. Pull tape tight until it barely dimples your skin. Write down that measurement. NOW, inhale suck in your belly and pull the tape as tight as you can without hurting yourself. Write that measurement down. Subtract the larger number from smaller. Divide that difference, then ADD that difference back to your smaller number. With a piece of tape, mark your cloth tape at that length. Now, try it on for size. If that dimension is just unbearably snug, add a half inch or centimeter to it and try that. Remember, EVERYTHING ABOUT A CHASTITY BELT DEPENDS ON THE WAISTBAND STAYING WHERE IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE. You do not want it slithering up and down on you, especially in a solid rear strap model!
Take that waistband measurement you can comfortably suffer and adjust the waistband metal of the chastity belt. Temporarily fasten the two halves together with the small screws and lock nuts. Now place the liner back on the waistband, making sure the roll over silicone is in place. Now, get your lock out and put your waistband on, secure the ends together with the lock. Walk around, sit down, get up, climb stairs, bend over tie your shoes, etc. Wear it for about an hour. Does it wiggle up? TOO TIGHT! Loosen one hole on belt adjustment holes. Does it wiggle down? TOO LOOSE! Tighten one hole. This is critical to everything else. Get it right before proceeding.
ONCE waistband is adjusted and on your body (you are still wearing it at this point), you need to make some preliminary bends on your front shield and back strap, but first get rid of the secondary shield and locking post for that. Take it off. You just want to deal with the front shield right now.
ALL YOUR FRONT SHIELD ADJUSTMENT and REAR SOLID STRAP ADJUSTMENT IS DONE off of two points: the center of your butthole, and the urethra. First, you can either use your finger or something else (like a buttplug or whatever you want) to get the center of your anus. That needs to be centered on the anus ring of the chastity belts rear strap. Carefully bend it up toward your front, try to get a smooth covering over your vulva. You will most likely be hunched over while doing this, so after you get some quick curve to the front shield, occasionally stand up and hold it against yourself and see how it fits. You want the front shield to be tight, but not so tight it hurts. Your labia will most likely pucker through the front shield vagina slot. It is supposed to. If you are not getting any labia to squish through the slot, the front shield is not pressed against you tight enough. By same token, if your lips are turning blue, thats too tight. Needs to be as snug as you can tolerate. It is better to err on side of tightness than looseness in chastity belt fitting, though. Trust me, after 48 hours of wearing, your body WILL ADAPT and miraculously, the belt gets comfy. While holding that front shield in place, stand in front of mirror and look at how the front shield locking post holes line up with the posts on your waistband. Get a tape measure that while standing totally straight. Now, adjust the top of the front shield and use the little screws to hold it together.
Next step: Lock the adjusted front shield to your waistband. Now go back to the mirror and reach behind and press the solid rear strap into your butt, pull upward and make the crooked bend around your tailbone. Peek behind yourself and guesstimate how much up or down it is going to take to get the rear strap mounting flange to line up with the waistband adjusting holes. Adjust rear strap (i used one screw and had to move mine twice to get it right).
Take off your belt, fasten the rear strap to the CENTER REAR of the waistband. Measure it if you cannot eyeball it for center. Now use the screws and locking nuts to lock it on.
PUT THE LINER ON EVERY PART OF YOUR CHASTITY BELT. Now is your 3 hour wear time. Yes, you have to wear it. Move around. A chastity belt is not supposed to hinder any of your movements. Do your thang. If too tight? take off and make minor adjustments. Getting a buttcrack pinch? Reach back and give a bend to the metal. Sit down. Does the swell of the front shield gouge your groin tendons? You need to move it UP. Tighten one hole on top of front shield adjustment plate and loosen one hole on rear strap adjuster. Rebend and make sure your anus is centered on the hole. Go sit on the toilet. Reach under you and feel. Are you STILL centered on that hole? You better get it right, because first time you go to poop and that is not centered on your anus, you are going to have a nasty mess.
Wear the belt until you have to pee. When you pee through the front shield slot, does it hit the bottom of the elongated slot and splash everywhere? If so, you need to move front shield DOWNward.
This is where these chastity belt patterns from Chinese have issues. For some body shapes, you are just not going to get your anus centered, the front shield slot just right and also clear the front shield swell to keep groin tendon dig in from happening. Do the best you can. IF the belt is TOO LONG between those points, YOU CAN cut the center of the belt between vaginal slot and anus hole, drill holes and rivet the pieces back together. But that is going to make the silicone liner not fit right. Hopefully, you can get it "good enough". Remember, these are cheapie belts, not custom jobs from premium chastity belt makers. Caveat emptor.
STEP #2.
Permanently riveting together your chastity belt parts.
Take the liner off. take the rear strap loose from the waistband. Now, you need to install rivets in your waistband adjustment holes. When you start on waistband, you want to remember not to fill the holes needed to re-attach the rear strap at center back. You also do not want to fill the holes over the center of each hip (side) that you plan to install D-rings on.
Mark your parts with a big "O" for OUTSIDE with a Sharpie marker. (you can wipe that off later with rubbing alcohol). All your clean rivet faces need to be installed outside IN. You need to straighten out your belt parts, careful not to kink the metal. This is where you can get real fancy with rhinestone rivets you can get from Tandy Leather Co. or wherever. You can get brass rivets, or antique, etc. Rivets with gemstones come in all colors! Be artsy. Its YOUR belt, after all.
After you get your D-rings measured and attached where you want (be sure you remember which side of the waistband is UP for D-ring attachment!!!. maybe mark it with an arrow --> UPside.) you want to take sandpaper and rough up the INSIDE SURFACE as rough as you can. Wipe down three times with rubbing alcohol (90%) and wear rubber gloves. Any finger oil or anything else will detract from the silicone adhering to the metal as you glue your liner in place...
NEXT UP: GLUING SILICONE LINER IN PLACE. (to be continued...)
