BeltedGirls.com

UPDATE:

Working on the Tobbebelt...

Okay, I got the lower front shield bent...roughly. I had to take off the rear cable assembly and the edging came loose down there. Tobbe...what sort of glue did you use on the edging again, please?

So...time for some images! This next one is the side view not yet bent to match the curve of the front shield... Lastly, a head-on view of the cable mount... [u__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________[/u]

Now time for some constructive criticism...

When I disassembled these components, I discovered after grinding off the screw heads that there is only 1.25 turns of cut thread in the cable mount holes. I'll have to tap these deeper. I f***ing hate tapping stainless steel. I always break at least 2 taps doing it and I then lose my religion) Future reference: please tap holes for cable mount to front shield attachment screws before crimping cable in the cable mount. (if you try and tap after inserting cable into cable mount you will not have space to allow for chips and depth past the front bevel of the tap)

Additionally, Tobbe, I am not a big fan of screws on chastity belts because:

• 1. screws loosen over time
  2. screws once they loosen some leave sharp head edges above material
  3. Screw heads and space under that head create a stinkpoint.
  4. Screws strip out or any number of other mechanical ills

I prefer a 100% riveted chastity belt. Stainless steel rivets spot heated and peened is the MOST secure and long lasting way. Second to that would be copper burrs. Avoid aluminum, nickel, and pewter (because of the zinc). All those metals leach off into the body when they corrode. Mild steel rivets are no good because they will rust. (we should try bluing some and see if that works)

Sorry...was ranting...anyways...back to the cable mount...

When I first started tinkering with the Tobbebelt I saw the green Sugru and the end of the cable mount was just clipped off 90 degrees, some buff over was done, but there was still a substantial ledge on that end. I ground that down to a bullet point with the flat of it resting against the front shield surface plane. I believe this is a much better profile for sitting and not leaving a pencil-shaped dent in any wooden chairs.

So now I have the front shield curve right. After doing test fitting (no locked waistband) I still see that the width between legs is still a bit too wide. I can go one of two routes to correct this:
1. Grind down the sides,
2. BEND more concavity to that part that goes between the legs from vag bottom to anus start. (the "taint" covering)

#2 is the better way to go, I think. It is stronger and offers more space for meat behind the shield with minimized labial squish-out when the front shield fits too tightly from the belt wiggling about during daily movement.
#2 is also the harder way to go. (I like hard...lots!)

Anyways, that is it for now. Will review more when I get into more.

RECAP: TAP screw holes completely before mounting cable mount, and grind the end to a more ergonomic shape, such as bulleted or semi-spherical. I'm not a fan of the screws, but right now I cannot see how a rivet could work for this application.

Anyways, the Tobbebelt proto-type is a good start and many refinements before it is all done will be shared with all. (including the creator, Mr. Tobbe Himself, who I am sure would love some constructive feedback)
More later on...

Pyra Gorgon: Okay, I got the lower front shield bent...roughly. I had to take off the rear cable assembly and the edging came loose down there. Tobbe...what sort of glue did you use on the edging again, please?

Unfortunately, I can not help you with that, because the glue is on the edging and glue when I melt with heat gun!

Additionally, Tobbe, I am not a big fan of screws on chastity belts.

Good that you are coming with criticism! It makes the next chastity belt will be much better.
Cable end was screwed to belt because it is a prototype and I thought maybe you needed to move it. Otherwise, it is of course better to solder or weld. I have found a local supplier who has 4 mm stainless pipe, that makes it easier to manufacture attachment for cable.

Tobbe wrote:

Pyra Gorgon: Okay, I got the lower front shield bent...roughly. I had to take off the rear cable assembly and the edging came loose down there. Tobbe...what sort of glue did you use on the edging again, please?

Unfortunately, I can not help you with that, because the glue is on the edging and glue when I melt with heat gun!

Additionally, Tobbe, I am not a big fan of screws on chastity belts.

Good that you are coming with criticism! It makes the next chastity belt will be much better.
Cable end was screwed to belt because it is a prototype and I thought maybe you needed to move it. Otherwise, it is of course better to solder or weld. I have found a local supplier who has 4 mm stainless pipe, that makes it easier to manufacture attachment for cable.

Ah good!

Okay...may I please have the link to where you got the edging with the glue strip built into it?

You know me, my friend, I will offer up the best constructive criticism while having the belt IN HAND and from wearing. Right now all I have is the working on it. I'll give feedback when teh wearing time comes.

So far, my fiancee is being patient and not forcing the issue of madly working on this to get it to completion quickly. I have time to piddle and tinker and think.

Pyra, I tried really hard to find a glue that sticks the liner in place. I have found nothing that works well. I can only say that if the belt forms to your body well, you prob don't need a liner...... That would be the 'ideal ' belt!!
I have no liner in my front plate and it's comfortable.

I like liner in the hip band with my current ergonomic belt as it digs into my sides without it. But water gets under the liner during shower time ;-(

I will see if I can survive without a hip liner when I'm wearing my super ergonomic hip band.
No liner, no stink points, pinch points are what we are aiming for!!

Tough I know, but as you have the skills and you're a belted lady, I feel you'll make it happen

Kellymac3 wrote:Pyra, I tried really hard to find a glue that sticks the liner in place. I have found nothing that works well. I can only say that if the belt forms to your body well, you prob don't need a liner...... That would be the 'ideal ' belt!!
I have no liner in my front plate and it's comfortable.

I like liner in the hip band with my current ergonomic belt as it digs into my sides without it. But water gets under the liner during shower time ;-(

I will see if I can survive without a hip liner when I'm wearing my super ergonomic hip band.
No liner, no stink points, pinch points are what we are aiming for!!

Tough I know, but as you have the skills and you're a belted lady, I feel you'll make it happen

I agree, Kelly. The best belt is 100% stainless steel with a rolled edge instead of any other material glued on.

I do not have the tooling to roll an edge in stainless steel right now. That requires a bead roller, an anvil, raising stakes, dishing bowls, oxy-acetylene torch for annealing, planishing hammers, spike peen hammer, etc, etc, etc. All I have is med and small standard peen, tack hammer, and a 6" bench vise. I have a buffer and a Dremel. Wrong tools for that. (I am working at getting tooling, but takes time! and money...)

Besides, Tobbe SENT me the belt with edging, so I want to restore it to OEM "Tobbeboy" styling. If I do anything else, how can I offer pertinent assessment and feedback? All I am doing is FITTING, not re-designing of the Tobbeboy. (or Tobbebelt, whichever)

I polished the bajeezus out of the front shield yesterday. Now I am trying to tap the holes to reinstall the rear cable. Stay tuned...

Pyra Gorgon wrote:
I do not have the tooling to roll an edge in stainless steel right now. That requires a bead roller, an anvil, raising stakes, dishing bowls, oxy-acetylene torch for annealing, planishing hammers, spike peen hammer, etc, etc, etc. All I have is med and small standard peen, tack hammer, and a 6" bench vise. I have a buffer and a Dremel. Wrong tools for that. (I am working at getting tooling, but takes time! and money...)

Besides, Tobbe SENT me the belt with edging, so I want to restore it to OEM "Tobbeboy" styling. If I do anything else, how can I offer pertinent assessment and feedback? All I am doing is FITTING, not re-designing of the Tobbeboy. (or Tobbebelt, whichever)

I polished the bajeezus out of the front shield yesterday. Now I am trying to tap the holes to reinstall the rear cable. Stay tuned...

Hey Darla! Think we need you

ntysecrets wrote:I love this concept and your version is very professionally done. I long for the day I am able to try one of these..

Lovely design. Now suppose the key were also attached to the end of a rigid 2' steel bar. Be almost impossible to self-unlock then even with key...