BeltedGirls.com

Michelle,

I admire your patience as I would have lost mine long ago. I don't know if you're interested but after reading through some of your web page (and your unboxing videos) I wondered what would be involved in making the latching mechanism that's part of that belt so I showed them to my husband (I hope you don't mind) and he scribbled out some sketches (he couldn't help himself) which I redrew in a paint program for you and everyone else.

He suggested that a key might not be necessary if there's going to be a top cover hiding the latches, which would simplify the design significantly. A basic pawl mechanism would look something like this:

Pawl Mechanism The orange part is the frame of the latch, the yellow is the pawl, and the black line that protrudes into the frame and pawl is the spring. He said an easy way of installing this kind of spring is to slot the frame a few "thou" smaller than the width of the spring, and overside the slot in the pawl slightly, and tap it in with a wooden mallet. The spring would be contained by the frame and have enough room in the pawl to shift as the angle changes, but be tight enough to keep the pawl engaged when the pawl isn't moved away by the person operating the pawl. making the pawl wider than the tooth on the end would increase stability while it's engaged making "bumping" much more difficult. He said the easy way to make the pawls is to make them out of the same thickness stainless as the frame layer they'll reside in, bend the non-toothed end 90 degrees for a handle, then machine a "few thou" off the bottom and the sides so there is room for grease but not enough room they wobble around. Skimming the sides would also remove the likely protrusions at the bend caused by the bending process.

He envisioned four layers to this "lock sandwich" similar to the lock they shipped you.

backplate and anti-tamper shield:

pawl lock frame lock cover I didn't draw any of the rivet holes because I was struggling to place them symmetrically and the software wasn't cooperating. The back cover, lock frame, and lock cover would be riveted together as an assembly after the pawls and springs are installed. The small rectangles on the lock cover are holes (punched or machined) are to allow the 90 degree bend at the end of each pawl to stick through there is leverage available to release the pawls with a fingernail or small screwdriver. They would be covered by the anti-tamper shield on top.

My husband had some thoughts about how the the anti-tamper shield might attach. It could be hinged at either side entry point and a hasp with a tiny padlock installed on the indentation directly opposite but that wouldn't be symmetrical in appearance. You might skip the hinge and have two hasps with two tiny padlocks, one per side. You could make the top straight across and put a long hinge there and two little padlocks and hasps on the sides towards the bottom which would by symmetrical and keep the anti-tamper shield attached. Maybe that would rattle less?

I pointed out that your lock isn't flat and instead, tapered a little bit so it can contour with your body. He said that's easy to achieve after each layer has gone through basic machining. The worker has to make a 3-sided, low-profile pyramid buck and center each piece then hammer them to match the contour. He said drilling the rivet holes after tapering would be best so they aren't angled away from each other. Rivet heads can be angled a small amount since they're deformed as they're installed anyway. He continued by suggesting a nice finishing touch would be to oversize the perimeter slightly, assemble and test the whole thing, then pass the edges through a radius cutter to round the sandwich on all sides creating a nice 180 degree radius for your comfort. I have to say that's a great idea because my belt is very comfortable because of the radiusing work done on the inside of all the pieces of my belt and I wish it was radiused on the outside too.

He said if stainless is used throughout, including the rivets, pawls and springs, it could be subjected to showers, bath water, body oils and sweat without issue. Lithium grease would help lubricate the pawls and keep dead skin and dirt out. Rivets would allow the pieces to be thinner, but allen head or other stainless machine screws could be used because there is an anti-tamper shield covering them so they can't be removed "just because". Screws would make cleaning it out someday that much easier. The back plate would have to be thicker if screws are used instead of rivets because it would have to be able to hold threads without tearing from use.

If you do use rivets you can use ones with tapered heads and drill tapered holes in the back and top plates which will make them flush though you might have to touch them up with a grinder. That might be more comfortable to wear than having an array of bumps pressing into your skin.

I hope this is useful but if not, maybe it's entertaining

Molly

msknight wrote:Video of locking mechanism in action...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sO8FJ5Z2_y0 - (temporarily hidden - may or may not be re-instated depending on Fetish Ironworks' actions in the coming weeks.)

Is private so cannot see it.

I've now had a look at the locking mechanism on youtube here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6w3IwbDsA8

Seems to me with this system there's no need for a padlock at all. Why not just have security screws to hold all the plates together?

Like these?

http://www.brycefastener.com/key-rex.html

Hi Molly,

Thanks for that. I've read it all and he's definitely going in the right direction.

For obvious reasons, I can't share the information that F.I. have given me, but this is all on the right lines.

The last few days have been nuts. Some friends have come back to the UK after a good few months absence in the U.S. West Coast, (and are stil partially in that time zone) so yesterday was up at 3am, do the commute and the day job, then get to their place where we had a long overdue social session and didn't get to sleep until 4:30am ... my body clock woke me up at 9:30 and my head is thumping. It was fun when I was in my twenties but now I'm in my forties, I just can't take this kind of punishment!

I've had an e-mail from F.I. and the automatic translation thingy led me to the point where I think I need one of my trusted Italian friends to translate for me. I can't detail anything, but it looks like external forces are continuing to hamper Fetish Ironworks. If true, and I don't have any reason to doubt them, then delay in the belt production is very, very understandable ... but long absence of communication isn't.

I did have a release mechanism idea for a radial lock in the centre, but the more I think on it, the more I come to believe that simple is the way to go, not more complex.

There is an issue with a ratchet system in that the tongue that goes in to the lock needs to be straight; when a long, straight, "tongue," is combined with the curvature of a small waist, it requires care. My thoughts are turning to a hinge at the back ... but I'm still turning things over in my head. There's got to be a locking mechanism that's secure, has a degree of flexibility, is unobtrusive and just ... works. It's going to take a eureka moment, I think.

I was hoping to have closer communication with someone else who is within a manageable distance from me, and also has a passion for CB design ... (I'm someone for whom, a fortnightly commute from Folkestone to Muenchen is a manageable drive!) but they too have gone quiet.

My personal conclusion is that...
1) circular hip belts restrict body motion too much, and are easiest to defeat
2) while hip belts tread a fine balance between pressure and shape so aren't as tolerant of weight changes
3) Drop-hip seem to be the most comfortable by a fair degree.

Althouh there were issues with the first FI belt, the critical thing was on a very early wearing I felt confident to do a two hour drive in it, and when traffic turned that in to a four hour ordeal, I emerged the other side of it, without any damage, except some pinching and the obligatory red marks.

Due to the time spent writing books, Black Kat and I haven't really sat down with some beers and tackled the CB design; meaning another summer has passed us by, but next year should be a lot more flexible for me, so we can start bouncing ideas around.

I did think about approaching Walter, as his, "new," (as of early last year) light design looked very promising; but I still don't know the reason for his sudden absence from communication last year, and I think he's probably a busy bloke; coupled with the chaos in my life, I've left him be.

msknight wrote:For obvious reasons, I can't share the information that F.I. have given me, but this is all on the right lines.

That's okay. I wasn't trying to draw top secret information out of you. I engaged my husband into this by saying "This is really interesting, I wonder how they make it?" and he couldn't help himself. I thought maybe what came out of that might be helpful to you considering the frustration you're experiencing with F.I. at the moment. And if not, I still had the pleasure of watching my husband's mind work which is always a turn-on for me. Smart = hot

msknight wrote:1) circular hip belts restrict body motion too much

And... depending on your body mechanics the shield might act as a cheese grater. This was the major problem I had with my former hip belt and why it was replaced not too long after we bought it. My hips move a lot when I walk briskly and run and those movements were passed right into that belt, dragging the shield across my privates. My waist doesn't move anywhere near as much as my hips when I move so for me, attaching a belt there makes the belt significantly more comfortable and gives me more freedom of movement. As a serious runner, range of motion is very important.

OK ... Status report.

Small companies have a weakness ... if something outside happens, then it can brings things to a halt. Without giving details, this has happened to Fetish Ironworks; the latest delay is outside their control.

I understand the delay they are facing, and tonight I'll pen an update e-mail wishing them the best against the adversity they are facing. It doesn't excuse the lack of e-mail response, however.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again ... if people keep in touch with me; then I'm happy to be patient and wait. Keep me in the dark, and I'm not a happy bunny. ... and I think that this goes for most human beings on this planet.

We are now starting to go in to the autumn/winter periods, where I spend time with friends; and my attention turns more to people, than it does to my, "in-box."

So ... time continues to tick ... but they are in contact, which is the main thing.

I have pleasure in reporting that Fetish Ironworks kept their promise.

A box arrived from Italy and I was able to pick it up today.

Due to various issues here, it will be a while before I can take pictures, and even longer before I can lose enough weight to wear it... but the important thing... at the end of the day... is that what they said they would do... has been done.

WELL done Fetish Iron Works for keeping your promise!
S

msknight wrote:I have pleasure in reporting that Fetish Ironworks kept their promise.

A box arrived from Italy and I was able to pick it up today.

Due to various issues here, it will be a while before I can take pictures, and even longer before I can lose enough weight to wear it... but the important thing... at the end of the day... is that what they said they would do... has been done.

And when you do wear it will you have a KH?

Greatcornbow wrote: And when you do wear it will you have a KH?

Ah... now that is a good question... which I shall look to answer once I have lost 2 stone in weight