Adventures in 3D printing chastity belts

[Tracker]

Hello all,

Its been a while, so I thought I should give an update.

For starters, people have been asking what happened to me. Well, primarily I got a full time job. And by full time, I mean a 50-60 hour per week, brain meltingly difficult, job that didn't really leave me much time for hobbies. I also hit a couple dead ends with my chastity belt development that made progress seem impossible, so I decided to put it on the back burner until I had more time.

Well, I left that job, and recently found myself with some more time. So, I decided to pick up where I left off and see if I could get a working design finally.

To understand the problem, you have to understand that I am really skinny. As in 5'7", 105 lbs. Or 170cm, 48kg for you metric types. This gives me the problem in that I have NO padding/fat anywhere. So, while a decently fitting belt might be good enough for most people as their fat acts like padding, that doesn't work for me. The difference between a belt that I can wear for several days comfortably, vs a belt that is unbearably painful after an hour is only 3 mm (1/8").

I tried to account for this with the cable style belt from previous posts. That way I could tension the cable in or out a few mm and get the belt to fit perfectly. The problem is that the cables will allow the belt to twist at the hips, causing the waist belts to ride up and dig into my ribs, or sit low and dig into my hips, or squeeze in and, well, you get the picture. This probably wouldn't be a problem for most people, but for somebody like me who again has ZERO padding on their hips, this basically made the problem unsolvable.

The cable style belt also had the problem where you could squeeze the waist belts together and get more room to slip a finger where it shouldn't go. And the locking method was tricky at best, involving a covering flap that really wasn't strong (i.e. easy to break off with a screw driver) and was finicky to put on and tighten properly.

So, I decided to skip using cables for the waist, and go with a hinged design. Basically, the same style you see in a Carrara chastity belt. This kept the shape fairly stable. But I still stuck with the dual cable layout for the back passage. This is really nice as it doesn't put any force on to the tail bone. It also allows for some flexibility. When walking, the cables come together, and sit snugly between your cheeks so their is no chafing or rubbing. But for defecation, they can spread apart, giving you room to do your business without getting anything messy.

The end result looks like this:
https://i.imgur.com/1WBQ4pZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NvcAmhY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BmlrVGw.jpg

Its worth pointing out, that getting to this shape wasn't an easy task. I had to go back, and redo the 3d scan of my waist to get an exact shape. And then I had to do a bunch of iterations to figure out how to compensate for the plastic shrinkage, scanning error, offsets for padding, figure out the shape of my hip bones, and a bunch of other problems that you wouldn't think of. For example, my hips are not perfectly symmetrical, one side is higher than the other, which makes a difference. Here you can see a partial collection of my attempts. I made more, but most of them wound up in the garbage, this is just what I found leftover when going through my bench.
https://i.imgur.com/HA2UWOi.jpg

Its worth noting, these aren't finished designs ready for long term wear, I printed them in ABS, so I am going to need to print them in a higher quality plastic when I am done changing the design. I am still going through and fiddling with the design to make it a bit more comfortable, easier to clean, etc. So it isn't a finished design, but I can wear this belt for several days straight and take care of bathroom, cleaning, etc.

You can see the belt worn here:
https://i.imgur.com/SNNQhJK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9ZchjDE.jpg

I should also point out some other features that I have figured out.

1. Padding
At first, I tried to make the belt work without padding. And that is definitely doable if your only interested in keeping it securely fit, but not if you want it to be wearable for more than a few hours, especially if you move around a lot and bend over. You don't really need padding on the cup, as it is sitting on soft tissue. But the part where it goes over the waist, as well as the back plate need padding to be comfortable. Basically, the hip bones and the plastic are separated by only skin (again, no fat), so there is no natural padding. As such, any small movement causes chafing/pinching.

I tried a variety of padding on the belt, anything from custom poured silicone (see previous post), to glued on neoprene, to rubber sheets. These often didn't stay on very well, or for very long, and could easily get torn off when cleaning. I would put a wash cloth under the belt and pull it back and forth to clean the skin under, and the padding would just tear off. It also left me sweaty as the padding didn't breathe well. I found the solution by getting myself one of these (tube style):
http://www.diabeticsock.com/products/Br ... -86-2.html

Designed to be worn under a back brace, they are made from a padded, cushy, breathable material. I just double it over, and tuck it under the belt, with a bit extra over the top to fold down and hide the waist band:
https://i.imgur.com/laQOIAl.jpg

When covered with underwear and a T-shirt, it basically becomes invisible.
https://i.imgur.com/dprZYqb.jpg

The belt sits in the small of the back, so a loose T-shit covers it easily, and the cup is pulled in pretty tight, and everything is well packaged, so it doesn't stand out very far from the body. I actually think it is less noticeable than the typical ball trap devices as it pulls the penis down rather than out and doesn't need a space for the ball ring.

The padding can then be easily removed for showering which is good as you don't need to wait for the padding to dry, and also it gives a bit extra space to get a wash cloth under the belt. If you are doing jumping jacks in the shower it can get a bit uncomfortable without the padding, but in general since you aren't moving quickly, it doesn't hurt. And you can easily swap out multiple clothes so you don't need to worry about stains, funky odors building up, or stuff like that.

2. Cleaning
You may not have noticed, but on the front of the cup are small little holes. These holes lead to internal passages, which are used to clean the inside of the penis chamber. You can see the holes and passages marked in blue, with the cleaning ports (where the water comes out) in red.
https://i.imgur.com/Xw0JZpj.jpg

These couple well with water injectors, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Waterpik-WP100W- ... erpik&th=1
or when on the go:
https://www.amazon.com/Denshine-Disposa ... er+syringe

Doesn't need to be those brands specifically, but any water pick or water syringe will work. The passages are actually split into 2 sections, for the top and lower holes. That way, when you urinate, you can just flush it out easily by squirting some water into both the lower holes. This gets any urine droplets out. Also, you don't need much, so you can just carry a water syringe in your pocket and fill it with some water from the toilet (before use, its the same water as the sink, so its safe).

Then, when at home, you can use the water pick to really flush out both the testes cup and the penis tube, I do it in the shower in the morning. Given the number of holes for air ventilation, and the ability to basically spray water anywhere inside, it cleans pretty well, while still preventing direct access.

3. Fit
As mentioned previously, the belt section took quite a bit of work, I thought the cup would be hard, but the belt turned out to be even harder in some ways. But I have really improved the fit on the cup. As you can see in the previous picture (pointed out in green) the place where the cup rests on the thighs is pretty tucked in, with the scrotum chamber bulging out a bit in width. This prevents the scrotum from sneaking back and getting pinched as it is effectively cupped from all sides, not just the front. Here are some close up shots:
https://i.imgur.com/ET7qDYl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JulvI6C.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ICxduPH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/A5AQlGK.jpg

The cool thing about this is not only does it contain the scrotum very well (and thus eliminate pinching) it also makes the area resting on the thighs much thinner than any belt I've seen previously. As a result, there is no chafing when doing physical activity. Thus far, I have played several rounds of ping pong, and jogged a few miles without any significant problems. I did get some soreness after the jog, due to the pressure, but no rubbing or chafing. And some aspirin took care of that. I suspect that after a few weeks, the soreness shouldn't happen any more.

Some problems still to solve include:
1. Skin sticking to the cables for the back passage. This is especially problematic around the anus as there is some soft skin there that will get stuck on the cables. It doesn't really pinch, but it does rub a bit. I have solved this with some padding that I remove when I need to defecate, but the padding smells bad after a while (for obvious reasons) and needs to be replaced often. Also, I can do without the padding 99% of the time, but occasionally when exercising, something will get stuck. I am not sure the best way to solve this. Perhaps just waiting for the skin to toughen a bit will help, or perhaps I will need to figure out a better padding method.

2.The lock. For reference, this is it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CS ... UTF8&psc=1
It works fine, and keeps the belt secure, and it is pretty rugged and not prone to easy breaking. It also hides pretty well under clothes as it fits in the gap between the cup and the waist that is naturally made by clothes. It is also high enough that the ends don't get in the way of my legs when doing activities. But it isn't exactly low profile. I have looked at various options, but I haven't found a great replacement yet.

3. Final material. Right now, all my prototypes are in ABS (lego plastic) as it is easy and cheap to print, and also sands and cleans up well, thus minimizing the work I need to do to make a prototype. But the easy sand-ability also makes it prone to wear out over the long term (you can already see some marks). It also isn't great chemical (urine/sweat) resistant over the long term. I have some chemical resistant, much stronger, more rugged, abrasion resistant, food grade nylon available that I am going to make the final cup out of. But that is going to be a very difficult process to sand it smooth due to the fact that it is abrasion resistant. I need to figure out a good way to do that, especially inside the penis tube where I need the most smoothness, but can't use a belt sander.

Upgrades to add:
1. I am planning at some point to add a hollow butt plug that locks on. I already have some plans for how to hook it up for an enema, and how to inject lube evenly. But I don't know if I want to make it something that slides on the cables, or replaces the cables. Nor am I sure if I want to make it independently attachable, which would require another lock, which is actually very difficult given the limited space.

2. E-stim system. I already have an E-stim butt plug, that can be fun. And I can see a way to install the pads inside the penis tube. There is also conductive filament I could print with that would allow me to integrate the pads wherever I want. I also have the area above the penis tube, and below the lock (which I could easily make larger by moving the lock up a bit) to fit the electronics and battery. But that's a bit of work, and I am wary of locking myself into a device that could malfunction and fry my very sensitive bits. But that would require a fancier printer than I have to print the conductive material. I am thinking I might just have the pads available, to hook up to, but have the electronics and battery attach separately (say, sitting in pocket) so they can be removed if problems occur.

3. Better lock at some point, I think. Something maybe a bit lower profile would be nice, but not required for my uses.

4. Non-metal version. The belt is all plastic except for the rear cable and lock. I could replace the lock with a plain nylon bolt that needs to be cut in order to be removed, but the cable is a bit trickier. They make nylon cable, but most of it isn't coated. I was thinking about getting some PTFE tubing (used for filament guidance on printers) and running some nylon cable inside that. But then I need to worry about load sharing, which... well... for engineering reasons is complicated. But that might help with my sticking problem too.


So, that's where I am. I finally have a working, locking, functional, wearable prototype that can be worn at least for a 3 days (longest test). But that included cleaning, bathing, bathroom, sleep, etc. So I think it could go longer if needed. It isn't fully complete. I am still futzing with better air hole placement, slight changes in fit, and other improvements, but it works.

So, to the question I have received repeatedly: Will I be making and selling these for other people?

I have definitely considered it. But the problem I have right now is simply the time taken to make one. My current design is the result of dozens of failed attempts, and I am not done yet. If I have to print a dozen attempts per person, that's not really practical. Now, I shouldn't need that many attempts as I have figured out a lot of what not to do, but I still don't have a full proof method of converting a scan to a print without doing some guess/check/rework. As I said before, the difference between fine and unusable for me is about 3 mm (1/8 inch). Even with an in person scan, some stuff like the exact placement of the penis tube and getting the exact length on the rear cable will be hard on the first attempt. This may be less of an issue for other people as I am probably a worst case scenario (again, no fat). But getting a bespoke made device perfect on the first go isn't possible for me yet.

Also, the production is difficult. I have a fairly high end printer, but it still can't make perfect prints and a lot of sanding and touch up work is required. It is probably about 3 hours of sanding/prep work for a prototype attempt, and probably 10+ hours to post process a final design. I can do that for myself, but that doesn't exactly scale well to mass production. These can be printed by professional places like shapeways. They quote me about 150$ for the cup, 45$ for each waist belt, and 15$ for the back, so 275$ when you include tax/shipping/etc. Probably more for the belts if people aren't as skinny as I am. Which isn't unreasonable compared to something like this: https://www.my-steel.de/shop/product_in ... 8ce8d16ed3

But while those might be nicer finish, and require less sanding by me, they still need sanding (or sand blasting, which I don't have the equipment for), and aren't food grade plastic. But then again, every other 3d printed chastity cage uses them, like evolution wearables. So, yeah maybe it's fine? I would feel better if I could find a good food grade coating/epoxy to apply.

So, long story short. I have thought about it, but the time, and cost involved to make one means that even charging a rate comparable to other high end belts (i.e. the untouchable one), I would be making a relatively low hourly rate (compared to what I could make as an engineer). I could upgrade my machine, get better sanding tools, and work on making algorithms to reduce the rework/error, but that only makes sense time wise if I am going to be doing these a lot (like 20+ belts), which then turns it from a hobby into a part time job, and I a don't know if I want this to be my job. It could work if I find somebody willing to do the manual labor (i.e. printing, sanding, cleaning, assembling) so that I only need to do the computer work, but that again requires a sizable amount in order to justify hiring a contractor.

So, yeah. I will let you know how the upgrades and finished design work. And maybe if the stars align I will have a kickstarter to see how much interest there is and if there is enough it might be worth me hiring somebody to do the manual labor, while I stick to the scanning and design.

Also asked, can I make a female version?
I could probably make a female version. That may actually be easier as I wouldn't need to worry about placing the penis tube or cup properly, but there are probably other issues with the fit which I am completely unaware of (not being female or having a female assistant). But in theory it seems simpler? I would have to figure out a lower profile lock though. My current version works fine for men as it sits in a naturally hidden spot between the belt and the bulge. But women tend not to have that gap. Also, my rear cable attachment needs about 12mm (half inch) to work. Fine for a guy, maybe not for a woman. So, I would have to look at redesigning that, which would get complicated. I could go as low as 7-8mm thickness, but that's about it given my current design method and materials available.

[calima]

wow amazing job, i would love have one like this for myself !!

[Blue Butt]

Hello,

Very good job, on of reason where i buy a 3D printer but i haven't competences for design a belt (3D software ask training). It is possible to share STL files?

[subeva74]

I was thinking the same, please share the printfiles. The links on Thingiverse are dead.

[Roy Yonng]

I registered so I can contribute to the conversation.


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