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More images of the work I am doing on the front shield of the Tobbeboy belt...

These images show the slipper shaped contour of the concavity of the front shield. The complex curve is tricky and it wants to warp out of true to centerline.

The edging was completely removed and the copper burrs holding it to the waistband have been removed. Also, the clit plate/ washing hole inside cover plate was removed before putting it on a raising stake. (I used my tomahawk handle eye as a round for peening the edges.)

I reground and true-ed up the angle of the lower front shield. I radiused the bottom and re-bent that lower section and adjusted the front shield TOP OF VULVA SWELL to decrease inside angle.

After getting this shaped to fit my nether parts, I will most likely sand down and polish out those hammer marks. While it does look sort of neat, I see potential for stinkpoint creating with all those microscopic nooks and crannies from a peened surface.

Still working...

The pee holes are incorrectly placed on this front shield... Also, the two holes are too closely spaced which makes a "wire" between the two centerlines and that hurts flesh that swells and presses against it. A good proportion for circles and proper spacing is: distance between two circles = radius of larger is distance between the closest two points. IF circles are to be offset as in zig zag pattern, then it is D=2/3r of A, where D is distance between, "A" is largest circle in pattern, r is radius of largest circle. This only works if all circles are within standard deviation of each others diameters. Larger proportions between circles? Just reverse the largest for the mean diameter of all circles in pattern.

That aesthetic and classical proportion ought to work best for minimizing pinching and it is just pleasing to the eye to see it that way. The following diagram will help explain the preceeding paragraph better... More to follow later when I have time for longer post...

I am very unhappy with the lastest development...

So now the end of this cable assembly is F***ED and must be re-fabricated.

This could have been avoided had the original crimp been placed at the very END of the cable connector at the cable entry point instead of up and down the length of the cable connector where drilling must happen. Anything more than 30% of the cable diameter in hole decompresses the cable twist and the wires splay out and wiggle free of the confinement of the cable end crimp.

TOBBE: Next time you make something like this, I encourage you to put a double crimp at the end where the cable ENTERS the cable connector. Smash DOWN the tube at the end, drill it to accept something meaty and suitable as a fastener, grind to circular, or whatever fancy shape takes your heart, and make sure it rides FLUSH to the curve of the front shield lower. You only need ONE good firm anchor point, a bit of swivel wont kill anything. Putting two fasteners toward the non-cable entry side of the connector spaced 3x the diameter of the fastener is plenty of spacing for rigid placement. (3x diameter is always a great proportion)

Yeah, nothing is going well on this. I went to rivet it with brass rod, but the original holes were not drilled on centerline so when I went to peen, it kept twisting to the side and breaking the hardened brass peen. The stainless steel cable connector is impossible to tap while wire is in the hole. (they get into the flutes and jam up the tap)

Since I could not tap it for threads, I had to rivet it. Now, it is not even possible to do that and I need new cable ends, cable, and the whole $#%#$^$#%&^$^&^ assembly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

I'm stuck until I can re-fabricate this rear cable assembly.

Okay, the cable connector issue is RESOLVED.

I barely had enough cable sticking out to work, but it did, so moving along...

As you can see, CRIMP @ end where cable enters connector...
and HOLE toward other end. I riveted the two parts together, then polished off and it is almost invisible!

Next up: putting urine holes in front shield...

Earlier this year I tried fabricating my own cable and connector using braided 1/2" plastic-coated wire from a local hardware store. I stripped one end, split apart the braid, cut off about 1/2 of the free wires, and attempted to epoxy the remaining threads to a metal bracket by spreading them out across its surface, appying epoxy, then heatshrink tubing, then clamps and time. It failed miserably, partly I believe because I was using fast-set epoxy and got the proportions of the mix wrong.

Anyway, I like how this wire adaptor looks! Pyra, or others, could you tell me just a little bit about how you would manufacture the cable attachment from scratch (or link to the thread where it is already explained)?

I use 4 mm wire and shrink tubing with adhesive.
You must use a crimping tool for the cable. Then the wire fixed and there is also an opportunity to loosen the wire, if you need to change or shorten it.

Thank you Tobbe,

Did you form the connector out of one of the standard ferrules used to crimp the wire, or did you make something from scratch, crimp it, and then mill & polish it?

I have been unable to find an online supplier of thick, adhesive-backed heat-shrink tubing - where do you get yours?

Thanks,
McS

I have used both stainless marine eye ends and stainless steel pipes, that has been cut and drilled holes for attaching to belt.

Woer http://en.woer.com/products/detail.aspx?id=437913

If in the USA or Canada the easiest supplier in my area for adhesive lined heat shrink is Fastenal. My only suggestion is to try these out on something disposable first because some tubing can let out A LOT of glue, depending on the size.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products - Electrical - Electrical Wire and Accessories - Heat Shrink Products - Tubing

I'm looking to seeing more on this thread too. I think this design is tremendous -details just need tweaking, that's all.

And I'm an absolute advocate of having the lock at the back. Quite apart from the wearer having problems access it, the front looks nicer too.